Automotive Blog

It is important to inspect a classic car before purchase, perhaps more than with newer cars. This is because classic cars have been on the road for long and if you buy without inspecting the car, you may end up spending a lot of money on spare parts because spares for classic cars are not readily available. The inspection should start with the documentation. The VIN should match with the VIN on the paperwork. You want a classic vehicle to be as close to its original state as possible and so if there are any alterations, you should ask for pictures of before and after. You should also go through the scheduled maintenance and the service history.

If the paperwork is okay, start the car to see if it is in good running condition. Check the exhaust of the vehicle to see if there is smoke – smoke is an indication of possible engine problems. Enlist the services of a mechanic to determine whether the engine idle quality while hot and while cold are normal. If there are any noises after you have started the engine, this might be an indication of engine problems. Take the car for a road test and check such things as acceleration, braking, engine noises, engine performance, automatic transmission shifting and noises, manual clutch engagement or slippage, responsiveness and smoothness of the steering, gauge operations, suspension on rough terrain, and gear noise.

Next, inspect the exterior of the vehicle. Check for rust, especially under the mats, inspect for any physical damage such as dents, dings, mismatched paint, bad paint job, and misalignment. Use a magnet to detect whether filler has been used to hide dents. Inspect the condition of the side and rear windows, check the hinge operation, and check the working of various parts such as wipers. Check whether the interior and exterior lights are working. Inspect the tires to make sure they are the correct size and to make sure they have the right tread depth and the right pressure. Check whether all the tires match and whether the spare matches. Make sure all the tire-changing tools are available.

Inspect the interior of the vehicle. Check whether the seat belts are working, whether the audio system is working, whether the horn is working, and whether door handles are working. Other parts and systems that should be inspected are the rear view mirror, the heating, the AC, the ventilation, and the defroster systems, the clock, the power outlets, the release to the filler door, and the manual or automatic door locks. Inspect the condition of the seat upholstery for such things as stains and rips and check the convertible top boot and the top itself for a convertible.

Check under the hood of the car. Among the things to check are oil leaks, oil in the air filter, the oil level and water or sludge in the oil. Others are fluid levels for the breaks and other components, the belts for tear and wear, the condition of the wiring and the hoses, leaks in the water pump and the fuel pump, and the condition of the fuel filter. Insist on having a mechanic with you when doing the inspection. Make a checklist so that you do not forget anything.

Ah, the joys of purchasing a brand new car! The satisfied security. The pride of ownership. The flaunting of new-found buying power. The off-gassing of volatile organic compounds that we call “the new-car smell.” And of course, that sickening pit that forms in your stomach upon discovery of the very first scratch.

We’ve all experienced it. First, there’s disbelief as the sight of the gouge draws you in for an up close look. Next, assessing the damage, you run your fingers over it, trying in vain to rub it away. Then, your head lifts and whips to and fro with rage as you scan the parking lot for an obvious offender. Seeing no one to blame, your rage slowly subsides and is replaced by the nauseas realization that this is no one’s fault but your own. You drop to your knees, raise your hands heavenward and mutter to yourself, “If only I’d purchased that damn custom-fit car cover!”

Well my friend, redemption can be had, or at least bought. Take a quick scan around your local auto parts store where you’ll find a host of one-size-fits-all covers, the most expensive of which costs less than a c-note. A universal cover will certainly prevent most forms of parking lot, garage and environmental damage, but they’re ill-fitting, bunchy and not very flattering as far as your ride’s lines are concerned.

But, how about going one better and doing your new car right with a custom-fit car cover made specifically for your year, make and model vehicle. Available in a huge array of fabrics, styles and colors from just as many manufacturers, a custom cover delivers a tight fit that hugs the curves and contours of your prized ride. The best come from names like Coverking covers, Covercraft car cover corporation, and California car covers, etc. This style cover is best purchased over the internet, where you can shop for the best prices and find the exact pattern your car needs.

Prices for custom covers can vary wildly, ranging from around $150 for a lightweight model all the way up to $500 or more for a top-notch, all-weather cover that can withstand the harshest elements. And, whether you go with Coverking covers, Covercraft car covers, California car covers or one of the other top brands that are out there, a custom cover is going to cost way less than paying for an Earl Scheib schlub to do some Bondo-laden body work and lay down a new paint job. And, you’ll never experience the gut-wrenching self-doubt of asking yourself, “What could I have done to prevent this?”

If you’re in the market for a car that can be rebuilt and put back on the road or re-sold, you have certain advantages if you find a repairable car with a clean title. A clean-title rebuildable car could be a car that’s been in a collision, or a theft recovery, a vandalized vehicle, a flood-damaged car or a burnout. In the case of floods, in particular, often insurance adjusters will get a sampling of cars that have been affected by flood damage on a dealer’s lot, and then write off all the cars as total losses. Sometimes these cars will come away with salvage titles; other times they’ll come with a clean title.

What is the one clearest advantage? A car that comes with a clean title will be worth more when the rebuild process is complete. A rebuilt car with a salvage title will be worth less, and many states will mandate extra inspections before the car can be registered again. Remember that some states do NOT record salvage vehicle titles.

You’ll also need to know that an unscrupulous seller can launder a salvage title by moving the car from a state that has salvage titles to one that records only clear titles.

You will, of course, need to check over a clean-title repairable car closely. Flood damage, in particular, can cause lingering headaches even after a car has been rebuilt. Inspect under the hood, under the dash, under the seats and carpets and in the trunk. Be aware of musty, mildewy smells (or efforts to cover up dank smells). Be on the lookout for rust inside the vehicle, or signs that the flood damage has been repaired or covered over. Water up to the floor pan of a car isn’t necessarily a big problem, even though an adjuster might still call it a total. Water up to a car’s windshield is almost always going to mean real trouble.

If it is at all possible, you should try to get a vehicle history report such as CARFAX. CARFAX isn’t perfect, but it gives you a leg up when buying a damaged vehicle (any vehicle, really). You can also look at the National Insurance Crime Bureau’s database to look for VIN numbers of cars that have been damaged in hurricanes or floods.

Clean-title repairable vehicles can wind up being a great deal for the rebuilder and reseller. Often these vehicles have negligible damage, or may just need cosmetic work to be returned to resellable condition. Do your homework, be aware of what you’re getting into and you can wind up with a car that can bring you years and many miles of reliable service, or can be sold at a fairly tidy profit. Also, remember that an older car has a lower book value, so it’s going to mean less actual damage for an insurer to write it off as a total loss.

Crimes rates escalate during an unstable economy. That is why most car owners install an auto alarm to protect their cars against break-ins, theft, robbery and vandalism. On the other hand, who has not been annoyed to no end by an alarm that keeps going off accidentally due to anything from an innocent passerby and thunder to transmission trouble and tints? Blaring auto alarms are a common parking lot scenario and also a sign that you probably require car alarm repair pronto.

It goes without saying that you should have already checked the user manual enclosed with the car alarm for how to turn the device on and off. A long-term car alarm repair solution is to find out what your auto alarm in particular is programmed to be triggered by. Most auto alarm systems are triggered by vibration at the very least, which explains how someone just passing by who happens to touch the car can set one off. The answer may be as simple as recalibrating the vibration trigger to be less sensitive.

Other common car alarm mechanisms are trigger switches made to be tripped by an opening or closing action, in case someone tries to open the car door, or sensors of changes in battery voltage, in case someone tries to start the car. Known brands of car alarms, remote car starters and vehicle security devices, such as AstroStart, Avital, Clifford, Python, Viper, outfit their products with other special trigger mechanisms. These include infrared, ultrasound and microwave sensors. Auto alarms can also go off when the car is tilted, as in the case of trailer towing.

A palliative car alarm repair measure would be to find the alarm’s fuse box and remove it just to shut the device off while you have not examined it. You are lucky if the fuse box is labeled properly but most factory installs are not. You can do this by trial and error. If one fuse box does not kill the alarm upon removal, simply put it back and try another. The fuse box you want may be in the engine compartment, under the hood or steering wheel.

In an economy where we are all looking to cut corners and save money it is very important that when we need transportation that we get it at a price that we can afford. If it is possible for us to get the same car paying at a much cheaper price it is wise to take that route.

Seized car auctions offer you just the route you need to have big savings on your next vehicle purchase. These auctions are run by the government are not set up like a dealership is set up or like a luxury auction is set up for that matter. The difference, the big difference, is the goal of the auctioneer at these auctions. With a desire to unload vehicles before new ones come in they are looking to sell at very low prices.

What kind of cars can I find at these repossessed auctions?

You can find cars of all kinds. There are luxury cars that normally are very expensive when you purchase that traditional buying spots. There are fast sports cars like Ford Mustangs, Chevy Camaro, Mitsubishi evolution to name just a few of the exciting fast cars at these auctions. And if you are looking for truck, there are plenty of these vehicles to choose from as well. Motorcycles, can also be found at these auctions.

The biggest advantage though is that cheap car prices that these auctions allow you to find. You will not be able to go to any other place and find prices for these vehicles like you will at a repossessed car auction.

So if you’re in need of a cheap car, don’t miss out on the incredible deals that are found at seized car auctions run by the government.